Footwear Industry Moves On Using Alternative Materials

2024-09-30 | By Brazilian Footwear

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Recognized as the largest footwear industry in the Western world, Brazil produces over 865 million pairs annually. For 2024, Abicalçados estimates a production growth of between 0.9% and 2.2%, driven primarily by the domestic market. Within this growth context, the use of so-called alternative materials in footwear development is also on the rise. These include both recycled and repurposed materials as well as biomaterials—inputs derived from nature that are biodegradable.

Abicalçados' Executive President, Haroldo Ferreira, highlights that currently, six out of ten footwear producers have at least one line of sustainable products. "Although scaling up remains a challenge, which often makes products developed with alternative materials more costly for consumers, there is a societal shift that cannot be ignored. This will soon make these products scalable and more competitive," projects Ferreira.

Plugt: international demand

One company that incorporates alternative materials in its footwear is Plugt, a children's footwear manufacturer based in Birigui, São Paulo. Since its founding in 2001, the company has been committed to sustainability, avoiding heavy materials and phthalates in its products. About seven years ago, Plugt took this commitment further by partnering with an Austrian brand to produce adult footwear using coconut fiber and bamboo under a private label model. "Noticing the growing market interest, we began using these materials in our Plugt-branded products, which turned out to be a success," says company director Renato Ramires.

"Noticing the growing market interest in natural materials, we began using these materials in our Plugt-branded products, which turned out to be a success."

Renato Ramires - Director of Plugt

An estimated 20% of Plugt's daily production of 1,200 pairs is crafted using a blend of coconut fiber, bamboo, and PVC. According to Ramires, demand for alternative materials is growing, particularly in international markets, where the company exports 20% to 30% of its production. "While the domestic market is slower to adopt, interest is growing, which allows us to aim for increased use of these fibers in our lines," Ramires adds. Beyond fibers, Plugt is exploring the development of footwear using repurposed cork and a "green EVA" made from sugarcane.

Alme: A Benchmark in Sustainable Practices

Alme, a women's brand under the Azzas 2154 Group (formerly Arezzo&Co), entered the market in 2018 and underwent a repositioning in 2021, embracing the mission to become a benchmark in sustainable practices applied to products. "We create footwear with the least environmental impact possible, while maximizing comfort. We combine fashion-forward designs with low-impact materials, such as plant-based and recycled components, alongside innovative technology that ensures maximum comfort and style," says Isabella Barbieri, Head of Operations and Marketing at Alme.

Alme's footwear incorporates biodegradable, recycled, and renewable materials, such as PET bottles (which are transformed into fabric fibers), sugarcane (the base for the green EVA used in insoles and soles), recycled cotton (repurposed from the textile industry), water-based adhesives without solvents, and Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) certified paper.

Barbieri notes a perceptible shift in recent years regarding the importance of sustainability. "These discussions have been significantly driven by the socio-environmental challenges we currently face. This is reflected in consumer behavior, where products and brands adopting more sustainable practices are standing out," she comments, citing a study showing that 38% of consumers have switched their favorite brand due to sustainability concerns (McKinsey).

"My perception is that consumers are increasingly inclined to seek products with lower environmental impact, favoring brands committed to ESG agendas. This is an important movement that strengthens the shift towards a more conscious market," she adds. In addition to sustainable products, Alme offers customers a service for the proper disposal of shoes, called Alme Retorna. Through this program, shoes can be repurposed as raw materials for the cement industry, offering a more sustainable alternative to fossil fuels.

"My perception is that consumers are increasingly inclined to seek products with lower environmental impact, favoring brands committed to ESG agendas. This is an important movement that strengthens the shift towards a more conscious market."

Isabella Barbieri - Head of Operations and Marketing at Alme

Vizzia: competitive sustainability

PVC Indústria e Comércio, the manufacturer of Vizzia sandals and flip-flops, is also betting on recycled products to gain a competitive edge. Unlike most other players, however, it is the recycled PVC—sourced in partnership with local cooperative collectors in Juazeiro do Norte, Ceará—that makes the price of its sandals more competitive. "We process over 60 tons of PVC annually. After grinding, it's used in the soles of our products without compromising the quality or comfort compared to those made from virgin materials," says company director Wanderson Sampaio Gonçalves. The businessman adds that, in addition to helping the environment by recycling material that would otherwise go to landfills, the process also reduces costs. "The cost is about 15% lower compared to products made from virgin materials," he says.

With a daily production of 14,000 pairs of sandals and 10,000 pairs of PVC soles, the group exports around 20% of its footwear to South American countries. "International markets are more receptive to our products, but the domestic market still lacks appreciation. I believe this is part of a broader awareness process," Gonçalves notes. With a stronger domestic market, the businessman projects that more than 90 tons of PVC will be processed this year, with a 5% to 10% growth in the production of sandals and soles.

"We process over 60 tons of PVC annually. After grinding, it's used in the soles of our products without compromising quality or comfort compared to those made from virgin materials."

Wanderson Sampaio Gonçalves - Director of PVC/Vizzia

In addition to using recycled PVC in its footwear, the group also uses recycled polyethylene from automotive bumpers to develop the hangers that accompany its sandals. "It's a smaller process, but important. We process about 2 tons of this plastic monthly, and like PVC, it's sourced from recycling cooperatives," Gonçalves concludes.

A Growing Movement

Beyond the companies consulted by Abicalçados, many others are incorporating recycled or biomaterials into their production. This is a growing trend in the sector, closely linked to increased consumer awareness. Below are additional examples that have been identified:

Grendene: Algae Pigment
In partnership with BLOOM, a sustainable materials company, Grendene of Farroupilha, Rio Grande do Sul, has increased the renewable content of products with algae sourced from overgrown freshwater, which was causing environmental imbalances.
Pampili: Eco-Friendly
The children's footwear manufacturer from Birigui, São Paulo, works with the Eco-Friendly Project—a line of products made with a percentage of recycled material, such as leftover counterforts, sole scraps, and more.
Piccadilly: So.Si Line
The women's footwear manufacturer from Igrejinha, Rio Grande do Sul, created a fully sustainable sneaker model, made with 3.5 recycled PET bottles, a sustainable and animal-free insole, and 17% reclaimed textile industry fiber.
Vulcabras: Corre ECO
A product from the sports brand Olympikus, Corre ECO was developed by running athletes with 100% sustainable technology. The sneaker features an upper made from recycled PET, green EVA (made from sugarcane), and special rubber extracted from rubber trees. The product tags are made from basil leaves that can be planted by consumers.
Tnin: Sugarcane Insoles
With canvas made from textile waste, recycled PET, recycled jeans, and organic cotton, the I'm Green EVA line is produced with sugarcane in the insoles, water-based glue, and recycled cardboard in the packaging materials.
Ferracini: Renewable Inputs
The brand from Franca, São Paulo, has a sustainable collection with footwear made from renewable inputs, including an upper made from recycled, dye-free knit fabric. Natural rubber, biodegradable, and renewable cotton are also part of the components used.
Modare Ultraconforto: Upper and Sole
The upper made from recycled polyester, the sole with PVC and rice husks—these are some of the alternative materials used by the footwear manufacturer Calçados Beira Rio from Novo Hamburgo, Rio Grande do Sul. The Modare Ultraconforto brand is one of the company's lines that utilizes these differentiators in its products.
Eco Klin: Low-Impact Collection
The little ones also have low-environmental-impact options with Eco Klin, as the children's footwear manufacturer from Birigui uses repurposed materials, natural dyes, rice husks, and bamboo fiber in its products.
Ramarim: Materials and Processes
The footwear manufacturer from Rio Grande do Sul has a line of products with sustainable materials and processes, including an upper and counterfort made from industrial waste with 80% reuse. The lining is made from 100% recycled PET, and the upper is produced with 100% recycled PET canvas.
Kenner: A New Destination for Waste
The brand launched the Re.Use collection, producing footwear from production waste that would otherwise be discarded.